Minding My Lympstone Manors....

Autumnal Devon is always a spectacle; golden trees mesh to form a copper canopy that surrounds glassy, meandering roads. Vibrant green hills sweep through the valley - Exmouth never looked so good.

Arriving at Lympstone Manor, I was beyond excited. It was my anniversary weekend and we were ready for a luxury break. The drive up to the main house was gorgeous, it was mid-October and the sun was beginning to set over the estuary. Beams of burnished red cascade down the façade of the Manor - a handsome building, stately, but without a hint of haughtiness.

After a friendly greeting, we were shown to our room, 'Oystercatcher'. The views were worth the price alone. The last embers of the day illuminating the valley, estuary and vineyard below. This was soul food and it was a veritable feast.

Making our way to the restaurant, we had opted for the Estuary tasting menu which, as you may have guessed, focusses on Devon's pelagic larder. After an extra dirty gin martini, I found myself ravenous and ready for food. The server must have sensed my fiendish appetite as I devoured the third plump olive from its briny liquor. A small box appeared with the amuse. A treasure chest of delicious, wonderfully crafted jewels: a small cracker moulded into the shape of a leaf (very trendy) with dots of creamy taramasalata. A crisp choux filled with piped foie and an onion gel. Rich, fatty, salty, acidic all at the same time. Delicious.

Lympstone Manor has 3 different dining rooms, all serving the same sumptuous food. Night one was a Thursday, the dinning room was full but tables were spaced enough that your conversation wasn't being eavesdropped upon (this may change as Covid restrictions relax). This is 5-star service with just the right amount of pomp.

A quick chat with the waiter and a generous glass of wine from the flight pairing and we were off. A single roasted Orkney scallop, seared flesh crisp with a beautifully cooked, pearlescent middle hidden within. The scallop placed proudly above layers of velvety caramelised cauliflower and cumin velouté. This was a lovely combination; sweet in the palate from the scallop, balanced with an earthiness of the truffle and cumin. The raisin and white truffle vinaigrette cutting the richness. A truly wonderful plate of food.

The following course was the one I was least looking forward to. Salmon has had a bad rep in our family. Mum would cremate it in the oven and serve with sad soggy greens. Therefore, unless smoked, it's never been a must-order item for me. Lympstone Manor's salmon was, however, delightful. A thick canon cut, generous in size for a degustation, crowned with a quenelle of caviar and accompanied by a honey and soy vinaigrette, wasabi yoghurt and tapioca cracker. The flesh of the salmon, cooked in the confit, was still fairly set which gave a nice textural chew. The honey and soy added sweet and umami elements, while the caviar provided the alkaline salinity. It was lovely, piled high onto the tapioca cracker, offering an audible crunch.

Onto the next course - barbequed sea bream served with broccoli, smoked yoghurt, buttermilk, almonds and curry oil. The bream was perfectly cooked, three thick slices, with crispy black skin kissed by a gentle smoke from the grill. The broccoli was as exciting as broccoli can be with a lovely ‘al dente’ snap. The candied almond strangely tied the dish altogether, creating a nice interplay with the smoky fish and the curried oil. Everything in this dish just works. Textures. Flavours. Superb.

And just when I thought the food couldn't get any better, we were introduced to the butter poached Brixham Turbot, which was my stand-out dish. With Brixham being less than 20miles away from Lympstone Manor, it was lovely to see Head Chef Jordan Denning showcasing the local produce. Turbot is prized for its meaty texture, and this was complimented with an umami rich chicken butter sauce. Now, I was hesitant when I read 'poached' fish. I needn't have been. This was sublime, absorbing the chicken flavour whilst respecting the freshness of the fish.

The final savoury course for the Estuary Menu was boudin of plaice. This was a lovely dish to finish on, The plaice was fused with a mousseline chock full of morel surrounded by a mound of smooth artichoke pureé. The morel provided textural bite and earthy notes against the velvety soft artichoke. The scallop added sweetness to juxtapose the acid in the white wine velouté.

Dessert was refreshing, A passion fruit sorbet hidden beneath an espuma of coconut cream. The coconut flavour was rich, and the cream was feather-light from all the aeration. The passion fruit had good acidity, a pleasing tang, and was effortlessly smooth. This was topped with a dehydrated shard of pineapple, concentrated in flavour to create realms of caramel sweetness. Amazing.

The first night of Lympstone Manor really was some of the most impeccable food I had eaten in a long time. And there was still tomorrow to come...